We often are asked the question of whether or not homeowners should completely gut the room they are looking to remodel. It’s a good question and to be honest, completely gutting a room, depending on the size and extent of the demolition, may be less expensive than you think.

In our opinion, it is always a good idea to completely demolish a room for a few reasons. First, depending on the age of the room being remodeled, it may be worthwhile to take a look at the plumbing, electrical, framing, and insulation in the wall cavities. Second, the overall finish of the room when completed will be more seamless. Our third and final reason is that codes are constantly being updated and it is worthwhile to make those changes if you are doing a remodel

Gutting a room can be a pretty scary thing to look at. Revealing your home’s bones can be confusing if you have never seen inside your walls before, but it is educational as well. We are able to quickly diagnose problems and make corrections which greatly benefit our clients. We have seen countless examples of poor and unsafe electrical wiring in walls which can be potentially dangerous for the homeowner. Being able to correct those issues gives peace of mind to the homeowner and enables us to provide the best job possible. In addition to uncovering electrical issues, we are able to uncover plumbing issues and make the appropriate changes. Often, we uncover lead toilet drains which are susceptible to failure that causes a leak of waste water into the space below. We also have uncovered water supply pipes that are run above the floor joists in a bed of tile mortar. These are things that we would bring to a homeowner’s attention and recommend be changed. Once these issues are corrected and new plumbing and electrical is installed, the building inspector can then see that everything is safe and up to code which would then allow us to install new insulation. Insulation has become much more efficient and adding new insulation to your walls can make a big difference to energy savings and heat loss. In some cases, depending on the age of your home, you may not even have any insulation in the walls. This is just another reason why a full demolition may be worthwhile.

By completing a full demolition to a room, we not only remedy certain issues we uncover, but we also are able to plan ahead for the remodel. Gutting a room isn’t only about getting new sheetrock at the end of the project. It’s also about preparing for the finishing touches that will take place at the end of the project. Our clients often ask us to install grab bars, towel bars, toilet paper holders, robe hooks, etc. We are certainly able to do this on a pre-finished wall, but there will be no guarantee that there will be a wood backer to screw into. Therefore, we would use a screw anchor, or molly, and the fixture would be fastened directly to the sheetrock or plaster ultimately leading them to loosen with age. However, when the sheetrock or plaster is removed from the room, it allows us to install framing for wood blocks in the walls where the homeowner wants their bathroom hardware. This ensures a solid area for the fixture to be attached thus creating a more seamless finish in the remodel. In addition to the wood blocks, we are able to frame areas for medicine cabinets or other storage units you may want installed. After everything is taken care of in the walls, new sheetrock is installed providing a new, unblemished surface, ready to receive paint.

Building code changes constantly and it is our job to make sure that your project is safe and up to code. One example of how gutting the room of your remodel and updates in building code go hand-in-hand is moisture protection in a finished basement. If you have a finished basement that was completed a long time ago, it may not have the proper moisture protection required by today’s building code. Moisture barriers behind wall framing in a basement can stop mold from forming in your wall cavity, thus creating a healthier space for you to be in. Another example of a change in building code that can be addressed is the issue of fire blocking areas in the wall cavities. Years ago, buildings were framed with balloon framing which meant that the wall studs often extended vertically the whole height of the building, with no break for a horizontal top plate. This method of framing allows fire to spread very quickly up through those wall cavities, thus decreasing the amount of time to extinguish the fire. New framing codes now prohibit this style of framing, but they also ensure that any open cavities in framing that lead to another floor or framing bay be blocked by either wood fire blocks or by a fire rated insulation. There are far too many code changes to list examples for, but by being able to make the appropriate updates, it will enable you to have the confidence that your remodel is safe and sound.

As you can see, gutting a room goes far beyond just getting new sheetrock installed and we feel it is a very important step on the remodeling process that should not be overlooked. We are certainly happy to work with whatever scope falls within your budget, but a full demolition of a room is something we will most always recommend. Our goal is to provide you with the most complete and thorough renovation while providing you with the highest quality of care and craftsmanship. If you have any questions regarding what you have read, please feel free to contact us at 860-529-9583.

To gut or not to gut. What is best for my remodel?

Gove Restoration LLC Earns Esteemed 2016 Angie’s List Super Service Award

Award reflects company’s consistently high level of customer service 

Gove Restoration llc has earned the home service industry’s coveted Angie’s List Super Service Award, reflecting an exemplary year of customer service to members of the local services marketplace and consumer review site in 2016. This achievement is particularly significant as Angie’s List experienced unprecedented member growth in 2016.

More than 1.6 million consumers, many of whom were eager to quickly hire highly qualified service pros, joined Angie’s List after the company added a new, free membership tier.

“Companies that can meet higher demands without missing a beat in their exemplary performance standards truly do stand apart from their peers,” said Angie’s List Founder Angie Hicks. “Only a fraction of the thousands of companies in the Connecticut home renovation and remodeling market were able to do it.”

Angie’s List Super Service Award 2016 winners have met strict eligibility requirements, which include an “A” rating in overall grade, recent grade, and review period grade. The SSA winners must also be in good standing with Angie’s List, pass a background check and abide by Angie’s List operational guidelines.

“We are incredibly honored to receive this award for the fourth year in a row. Adam and I strive to develop strong customer/contractor relationships in an effort to provide the best quality and service possible and we are thrilled that our customers have had such wonderful remodeling experiences with us. We look forward to 2017 and will continue to keep our quality, trustworthiness, and integrity at the forefront of Gove Restoration. Thank you for your support!” – Matt Gove, co-owner, Gove Restoration LLC.

Service company ratings are updated daily on Angie’s List as new, verified consumer reviews are submitted. Companies are graded on an A through F scale in areas ranging from price to professionalism to punctuality.

For more than 21 years, Angie’s List restricted access to its verified reviews to consumers who paid membership fees. When the company removed that barrier, some companies worried that the new, non-paying members would not be as engaged as members of the past. Experience has shown, however, that these newly added members are just as engaged – across all age groups – as prior members. Also, because the company continues to adhere to its review verification process, there has been no degradation of review quality.

“The biggest change at Angie’s List is that we are connecting even more consumers to high quality service professionals,” Hicks said. “And that’s good for everyone.”

Angie's List helps facilitate happy transactions between more than 4.5 million consumers nationwide and its collection of highly rated service providers in more than 720 categories of service, ranging from home improvement to health care. Built on a foundation of more than 10 million verified reviews of local service, Angie's List connects consumers directly to its online marketplace of services from member-reviewed providers, and offers unique tools and support designed to improve the local service experience for both consumers and service professionals.

2016 Angie's List Super Service Award

Too often, we come across situations where homeowners do not realize the importance of applying for building permits when completing a renovation. Either they haven’t been educated by their contractor or they just don’t know the rules regarding building codes and regulations. 

As contractors, it’s unreasonable for us to assume that all of our clients and potential clients know the building code or even the process associated with it. That’s where we come in. It’s our job to educate and protect our clients, not only with the trustworthiness we provide as a contracting firm, but also with making sure the building and renovation process is legal. We put great effort into making sure we use quality materials, planning and laying out a project, communicating with our clients throughout a renovation, and also into making sure all of our work meets or exceeds state and federal building codes.

There are a couple of reasons contractors try to convince their clients that no permits are required for work. First, pulling a permit costs money. Let’s face it, nothing is free. There is a cost associated with everything, even piece of mind! Permits not only ensure things remain legal, but they provide a certain piece of mind for both contractors and homeowners. Work is inspected over several visits to ensure that it is being done properly and if something needs correction, it is addressed immediately so that a project can proceed forward. The cost of the permit covers the various expenses incurred by local building departments; paperwork filing, visits of the building officials, and questions handled by the building officials. In addition, permits are recorded on the property card for the location of the work which leaves a very beneficial paper trail when either selling a property or purchasing a new one. Pulling a permit properly requires your contractor to disclose all of the work being completed, provide their license information as well as their liability and workman’s compensation insurance information, provide any drawings or engineer’s reports for additions or structural work, and provide the amount of the renovation which the total permit cost is ultimately based off of. All of this information is crucial in protecting both the client and the contractor, but it ultimately adds another cost to the renovation.

The second reason that permits may not be pulled is that permits tend to add time to a renovation. It’s no surprise that people generally don’t like having a portion of their house torn apart. We often get asked how long a typical remodel takes and we are honest with our clients regarding our timeline. Our typical bathroom remodels take about 3 – 4 weeks while our kitchens usually take 4 or 5. As we go through and explain the various phases of a project such as demolition, rough framing, rough electrical and plumbing, insulation, sheetrock, cabinet and counter installation, finish trim installation, and paint, we make sure to always mention that we factor in time to schedule the inspections. In some towns, there might be a 3-4 week lead time on inspection scheduling which, if not planned for, can lead to some serious lag time in a project. In most towns however, the lead time is typically a couple of days. A good contractor will do their best to plan ahead with their schedule and factor time in for those inspections. We typically plan our jobs out as far as we can and discuss with all parties involved in our project what the timeline is and when the dates of inspection will be. Inevitably, there can be delays and those are handled which typically results in a change in the inspection schedule, but our jobs are all run efficiently even with the permit schedule factored in. Unfortunately, we see too many instances where contractors don’t want the hassle of the added time on a project and they avoid the permitting process. By doing this, it allows them to cruise along without having the work inspected, but leaves the homeowner vulnerable.

In addition to not delaying the project, the third reason permits aren’t pulled is because the contractor doing the work is not licensed or insured. We frequently see situations where the price of the job is incredibly low compared to other bids for a project. If your contractor is not licensed or insured, their overhead is going to be very low which will allow them to place low bids on projects. Think about your car or home, imagine all of the money you would save if you didn’t have to have insurance on them! Well, that temptation spills into the world of home renovation and remodeling and in order to low bid projects, contractors may not carry the appropriate license or insurances required to be a legal outfit. If they do carry some form, it may not be correct based on the scope of work they typically cover. Bottom line is, if they don’t carry a license or insurance, then they can’t pull permits! The building departments would not allow these contractors to do the work in an effort to protect the residents of the town. If they can’t or don’t pull permits, then they don’t have to add in extra costs for the permit, worry about scheduling inspections, or even worry about following the building codes. In addition, dishonest contractors may not be hiring licensed plumbers, electricians, or other contractors to do work on a project, or they may even be doing the plumbing or electrical themselves. If this is the case, they cannot pull a permit for the job because the permit would not be approved since a licensed professional is required to do the work.

We are also seeing mortgage companies getting stricter on writing loans for mortgages where it is determined that work was done without a permit. Loans can be granted for buildings with illegal work that was done, but the appraisers are required by law to note any illegal work and adjust the property value accordingly. In addition to this, with the surge of remodeling and renovation television programs, homeowners are becoming more educated as to what is required for renovations. When looking to purchase a home, more and more people are looking at the property cards and searching for records of building permits. If they are not finding anything on record, especially for projects recently done, they may move on to the next house. The permits are there to protect not only the person living in the house currently, but the people in the process of either selling or purchasing a home. The permits truly are an invaluable aspect of home ownership.

If the work on your home is not being inspected, who is to say that it is done correctly and meets the current code regulations? Nobody. If the contractor doing the work doesn’t care enough to do things legally regarding permits, who is to say that they care enough to do the work the right way? On almost every job we do, we inevitably find something done the wrong way by the previous contractor. We have seen some scary things over the years. Live wires hidden in the walls, spliced wires buried in ceilings, arcing electrical wires actively charring wood almost to the point of a fire, plumbing drain lines run without traps or vents, inadequately sized drain lines, cracked pipes patched with epoxy, windows and exterior doors installed incorrectly, structural “modifications” to ceilings that where the weight above has caused the structure to sag, additions built with inadequate and undersized lumber, the list goes on and on. We worked on a project where we opened a ceiling above a kitchen to run new drain lines for some bathrooms above and found that the majority of the ceiling joists which were 2x10s were notched to allow for plumbing drain lines to be run. The notches were made in such a way that the 2x10s were no longer the equivalent to 2x10s. They had been cut so much and in the wrong way that they were reduced to the structural integrity of a 2x4. The ceiling had sagged so much due to the weakened wood that we needed to reframe the entire ceiling with custom cut joists to eliminate the sag in the floor. With the weight of two bathrooms above it, the ceiling was straining to support the weight. The plumbing drains were run so poorly that an incredible amount of work had to be done to the drain lines. We made sure that everything was safe and the work was inspected and signed off on. I looked at the previous records for the property and there were absolutely no records for the two bathrooms above which had been previously remodeled.

In a similar situation, we were hired to gut and remodel two bathrooms in a house and upon removing the sheetrock ceiling, we found that the previous contractor had cut all of the old roof rafters above the bathrooms to make space for a higher bathroom ceiling height. The main ridge beam of the house was floating in place and barely being held up by any supporting structure. It was amazing that the roof did not fail with the weigh loads of some of the past winters. Since the attic portion above these bathrooms was completely sealed off from any other attic space, this damage could not be seen or detected not only by us, but by the home inspector that the homeowners hired when purchasing the home. Looking back at the records, we found no permits pulled for the work being done and we had to correct the issue in the attic space before covering it up. This added significant cost to the project total, but it had to be done. We had to re-support the main carrying ridge beam and re-frame the rafters down to the exterior walls. Had the previous homeowner’s contractor pulled permits, none of that destruction to the roof structure would have occurred and the new homeowners would not have been left holding the bill.

Projects that typically require building permits are projects that alter the use of a room or space, demolishing load bearing walls, applying a new roof or altering the roof line of a structure, installing new electrical wiring or circuits, installing fences, demolition of structures, construction or alterations of decks, sewer line work, plumbing work that adds supply lines or drain lines, construction of additions, general remodeling where plumbing, electrical, and insulation work is involved, building a garage or carport, replacing windows with both new construction or replacement windows, replacing doors, HVAC work, replacing water heaters, and installing siding on the exterior of a home. Permits aren’t typically required for painting projects, floor refinishing or installation, replacing countertops, or installing landscaping. However, the best and most thorough way to see if your next remodeling project requires a permit is to call the local building department for verification.

Trust your contractor. Have open discussions with them about the remodeling process. One of the main things we try to provide is trustworthiness. It is unbelievable how often we hear that our clients had a hard time trusting their previous contractor. We made the vow to ourselves and our clients a long time ago that we were going to be a company built off integrity, trustworthiness, and quality craftsmanship. Our mission states that we strive to provide superior work while developing and maintaining strong and positive relationships with our clients. Let’s be honest here. You can’t have a strong or positive relationship with anyone if you don’t trust them and as a contracting firm, we can’t provide superior work unless we truly care about our clients and have integrity in the work we do. Those things are absolutely crucial in a positive remodeling experience. Use your initial experiences with your contractor as a gauge. Do you get a good feeling from that person? Were they on time? Did they call you back? Have they explained the process thoroughly along with the materials they will be using? If you find someone you can trust, they will be open with you regarding the remodeling process, including permitting.

Another thing you can do is call your local building department to get a clear understanding of what a permit is required for. You can visit your local building departments website to get a list of what projects require a permit. Print that list and ask your contractor if they are going to be pulling a permit. If they say no, question them and ask why. If they persist, then call your building department and tell them what you are being told in an effort to get clarification.

You can also research your contractor online. Websites like Angie’s List or Houzz provide a great database of different contractors. Look for a contractor with several reviews with high ratings. A successful, legal outfit is going to follow the right channels to make sure a project is above board and legal. If you can’t find much online about your contractor, call the local building department to see if they have much experience with that contractor.

Building Permits: Why they are important

We are honored to be considered one of Connecticut's top 15 kitchen remodeling contracting companies by General Contracting Magazine!

https://www.generalcontractors.org/the-best-kitchen-remodeling-contractors-in-connecticut/

Top 15 Kitchen Remodeling Contractors in CT!

We receive a lot of calls to replace rotted or cracked boards. Water, termites, insects, sun exposure, and other factors can cause wood to waste away, rot, or crack. In certain cases, it is necessary to replace these boards with either another wood product or even a composite product. However, if the damaged material is not structural or can be saved by any sort of repair, we are able to offer a much less invasive and cost effective solution.

There is an alternative to replacing trim boards, clapboards, or any wood surfaces that have these minor rot issues. We have been using a two-part, paintable epoxy product that enables us to repair damaged wood for a number of years. After the application, we sand the epoxy down to the contour of the wood we are repairing and once the sanding is complete, the epoxy can be primed and painted. For many years, the trusty body repair patch, Bondo, used by auto repair shops, was also used by carpenters to repair much more minor damage (gouges, scratches, very minor rot). Unfortunately, it did not have the life that this new epoxy product has and was unable to correct slightly larger rot or crack issues.

We were recently contacted by a homeowner who had a resident woodpecker that was wreaking havoc on some of the wood corner boards on his home. The homeowner wanted us to remove the boards and replace them with new material. Upon our inspection of the damage, we noticed that the holes created by the woodpecker did not go through the entire board. In addition, the damage was not very extensive and in no way was the structure of the house being affected by rain getting into the damaged areas. We presented the homeowner with the epoxy alternative and showed him the cost savings and he was thrilled.

Using this two part epoxy product has saved homeowners the expense of removing large sections of wood just to replace specific boards. This product can be used on everything from window sills to decorative wood columns and has been used on This Old House. During the Webb House exterior restoration project, we were able to save many original trim boards by using this product enabling us to preserve the history and look of the historic building. We were even able to fix some minor problem areas on the museum’s front entry columns.

If you are interested in learning more about the product and other applications, please contact us at 860-529-9583 or email us at contact@goverestoration.com

Wood Rot - an alternative to replacing damaged, non-structural wood

We are often asked about the expected lifetime of a coat exterior paint. Our answer is usually the same. “It depends.” Paint is only as good as the surface it is applied over. The substrate often dictates the life you can expect out of a fresh coat of paint. Exterior painting on your house should be done approximately every 6-8 years depending on your siding material. Of course, several factors play into what causes your paint to flake, peel, deteriorate, or mildew and these factors can decrease the lifespan of the paint.

Moisture content is one of the largest factors that we encounter, especially when working on older homes. One of our best tools is a moisture meter. This helps us check the moisture content of wood materials to determine if paint can be applied. All of our employees have been trained to use the meter and are able to check various test spots to ensure that the paint can be applied. If you have cedar clapboards or shingles on your house, you may notice that the paint may bubble, flake, or peel. This often happens around windows or doors, but can happen anywhere on the surface. If water can penetrate through the siding through cracks, gaps in caulking, or even by holes made by carpenter bees, it can travel down the backside of the material and become trapped. As the sun makes its way across the different sides of your house, it heats the wood and subsequently draws the moisture out from the backside causing the paint to bubble or flake. Just last summer, we were asked to remove the remaining aluminum siding from a house built in the 30’s. The homeowner had already removed half of the siding on the house and wanted us to complete the other half. The siding covered beautiful, wide cedar clapboards and detailed decorative trim. It was no wonder that the homeowners wanted to uncover the treasure they had. Upon painting one side of their house, the homeowners found that after about a year, the paint they had applied had started to peel off in large pieces. On the opposite side of the house, we had noticed that after painting the clapboards by using the appropriate steps (preparation, priming, and finish coat), small bubbles had started to develop in certain areas. The moisture that had penetrated behind the siding and behind the cedar had started to work its way out during the hot summer days. The bubbles were addressed and we continued on with the job.

Another factor we encounter is improperly applied paint. If the previous finish coat or primer was applied improperly (in the rain, high humidity, finish coat on bare wood), it is possible that the life of the paint will decrease dramatically. One of our best practices is to make sure that the wood is properly prepared prior to applying primer. We make sure that the loose paint is removed from the wood by scraping with carbide scrapers and putty knives. A lot of time is spent on removing the old paint and preparing the substrate for a fresh coat. Even with this attention to detail, if the previous coat was improperly applied, the finish coat life may decrease. It is very important when you contract with a painting company, that you feel comfortable with the painting process and how the company approaches painting the house. Two years ago, we were contracted to paint a house in a nearby town. After applying a penetrating oil based primer, we were finding that some of the paint was bubbling. After speaking with the homeowner, we found out that the previous contractor had painted the house during several rainy and damp days. This moisture had become trapped in the clapboards and when our oil based penetrating primer was applied, it was forcing the moisture to the surface. The surface of these clapboards had been tested for moisture content, but our meter could not detect the moisture that was toward the backside of the clapboards. Unfortunately for the homeowner, this meant that we had to alter our initial painting plan and spend a great deal of time applying the primer, drawing the moisture out, scraping the bubbles down to the bare wood, and reapplying the primer. This extra time was necessary in making sure that our finish coat would not bubble, blister, or flake.

Substrate condition is another factor that will determine how long a paint job will last on your house. If you have clapboards or shingles that are rotted or have been sanded or scraped down in thickness, you may need to replace those pieces before the paint is applied. One of the best parts of our company is that we have the ability to take the paint job from start to finish, including all of the carpentry. We were contracted in the Spring of 2010 to complete a complete exterior restoration of the Webb House, which is a national historic landmark, on Main Street in Wethersfield. Approximately 1200 – 1400 square feet of siding was in need of replacement. We were able to replace the necessary clapboards and continue on with the painting portion of the project.

As more and more layers of paint are applied to a house, it becomes increasingly likely that the paint will peel or flake in the future. We are finding that one way to provide a good paint job is to chemically remove the paint layers that are built up on the siding material. This was the case at the Webb House and we were able to expose the raw wood of the clapboards. After removing the several paint layers, the house was washed, primed, and painted with two finish coats. By removing the excessive amount of paint on the house, we were essentially able to start with a clean slate. In doing this, the paint will last much longer than if applied over several layers of existing paint.

On a painting side note, it is a common misconception that it is not possible to paint both vinyl and aluminum siding. If you have either of these on your home and are looking to change the color, you don’t need to go through the steps of re-siding. It is possible to paint the siding on your home. In fact, the paint job lasts for a long period of time!

In order to prepare the siding on your home for paint adhesion, we will take several steps to ensure that the bonding of the paint will be as strong as if we were painting wood. The method we use has proven to last long, look fantastic, and be cost effective.

Exterior Painting

One of your biggest investments is your home. Hiring the right company to work on that investment is a crucial step in protecting it. We go to great lengths to research, hire, and assign financial advisors with growing retirement and investment accounts that will hopefully grow to fund retirement, lifestyle choices, education, weddings, etc. Well, why not put the same care and diligence into researching and hiring a firm to work on your home?

We have been in business for many years and have heard some horror stories when it comes to clients hiring contractors. We have heard everything from contractors sitting on living room furniture watching television, to contractors stealing money, jewelry, and even cars (yes cars!), to contractors taking money and vanishing. In a climate where more and more people are looking for work and new home builders are slowing down, the remodeling and renovation market is becoming saturated with people looking to make ends meet. This flooding of the market has caused a dip in quality due to a cutthroat bidding process where contractors are trying to underbid each other to secure work. But buyer beware, the cheapest price usually ends up being the most expensive while the middle to high prices generally tend to stay accurate and end up being the greatest return on your investment. Homeowners are often hooked by the low price, sign a vague estimate, and then hit with numerous upcharges. We end up dealing with this cycle on an almost daily basis. We have made the decision to use high quality materials, provide clear and detailed estimates, work with high integrity, provide superior craftsmanship, and develop a strong customer/contractor relationship built on trust and communication. We have heard on numerous occasions that our bid was one of the highest that a person received, but that contractor they ended up hiring ended up being more expensive than our quote even though they were initially the lowest. In fact, we have actually been hired to come in and fix work that was done by the contractor hired instead of us initially. One of the things we try very hard to do is provide an extensive estimate that covers every aspect of the project. Change orders are a natural part of the renovation and remodeling process. Materials and projects change as work is completed on a project. Additionally, homeowners may choose to add or eliminate items throughout a project. 

One thing that can’t be taken into consideration during the bidding process are any “unforseens” that may arise throughout a project. For instance, if we remove sheetrock from a ceiling and find a cracked joist, the right thing to do is fix the joist, but there was no way that the crack could be seen during the estimate process. This would be corrected and added to the scope of the work through the change order process. By providing a detailed “work order” style estimate, we are able to provide a clear list of materials being used and the work being completed. This helps to eliminate speculation and misunderstandings as to what tasks should have been completed and what materials were going to be used. This ultimately helps us to provide a quote that does not fluctuate due to things that should have been thought of during the initial walk through/estimate. So while the quote might seem overwhelming at first, it’s important to look at the overall project to see if every aspect of the remodel is accounted for. If you are dealing with a contractor who offers a quick/low price or a general estimate like “remodel bathroom and tile shower,” you will most likely find that the overall price will increase as the project moves forward. The lowest bid is not always the best. By requesting a written description of the materials necessary for the job, it will allow you to compare apples to apples to see if the higher price really is a higher price. A low bid may indicate that a contractor uses sub-par materials, is desperate for work, or has underbid the amount of work necessary for a project. 

One of the things that we have found is that potential clients tend to compare bids based off of price first when in reality, the scope of work and materials used should be compared first. By comparing that first, it will give you a proper gauge as to if the prices are, or should be comparable. In construction and remodeling, there are countless ways for contractors to cut corners and decrease their price. This is unfortunately becoming more and more of a reality with the increase of contractors in the remodeling industry. We recently bid an exterior painting project where our bid was slightly higher than the bid the homeowner ultimately went with. The homeowner did hire us to complete some carpentry and during the prep and priming portion of the project, the homeowner sent me some photos of additional areas that needed some carpentry. In the pictures, I noticed one major painting difference. In my quote, I had stated that we would prime the entire home with oil based primer. Oil base primer tends to penetrate and bond well onto wood surfaces. The contractor they chose, spot primed the areas that they scraped down. The house did not get a full primer coat. Although our price was higher, we were also offering a more comprehensive paint job which required more time and labor and would have the potential to last a longer amount of time.

Recently, I was shown some pictures of a renovation in progress where a heating and air conditioning duct needed to be moved because it was located in a wall that was being removed. The room being renovated was located on the first floor of a two story house, where living space was located directly above the room being worked on. It was a complete kitchen renovation project and the contractor did not pull any permits. Permits are REQUIRED for a renovation like that and often, contractors do not pull permits because they want to cut corners and save money which ultimately makes their bid cheaper than other contractors. In this case, the contractor was cutting a huge corner, and in my opinion, put the structure of the house at risk. The duct needed to be moved to a different area in the ceiling and the contractor cut out a u-shaped notch from the structural ceiling joists above so that the rectangular duct could be sunk into the ceiling. Out of a 2x10 ceiling joist, a cut of about 12 inches in length by about 7 inches high was cut into 5 total joists. The cut was made toward the middle of the room at the weakest part of the joist. This ultimately decreases the structural integrity from a 2x10 down to a 2x3. I cannot stress enough how big of an issue this is and the worst part is that the homeowner was unaware and was in a position where they needed to trust what the contractor was doing. The contractor took complete advantage of this and abused the relationship he had with his client, thus leaving his client in a house where the second floor structure was compromised. I’m sure that on the surface, the remodel looked “fine” when the contractor was finished, but as time progresses, I am confident that the above floor will sink causing major work to be completed in the future. In this case, the cheap price the homeowner received will ultimately come back to cause a greater expense in the future.

In addition to creating comprehensive “work order” style quotes, we have chosen to not double book our projects. One of the biggest pieces of feedback we get from our clients is that they have had unpleasant experiences with other contractors showing up at random times throughout a project, leaving for days at a time, showing up again for a couple of hours here and there, and taking far too long to complete projects. We have taken this to heart because nothing can be more invasive than having your home torn apart for a major, or even minor, renovation. We understand that it is completely inconvenient and stressful. What we have been doing since this company was started is booking one project at a time. When we begin a project, we stay on that project until it is completed. We show up consistently at 7:30-8am every morning and work diligently throughout the day until 3:30-4:00. By not leaving to go to another remodel during the middle of an already started remodel, we are able to run our projects efficiently and organize our subcontractors to come in and work with us so that the project can proceed without issue. It greatly shortens the duration of projects and our clients always end up being amazed at how quickly and proficiently the work is completed.

Over the past few years, we have developed a strong reputation on the consumer site Angie’s List. We have earned numerous awards through the site based off our reviews from satisfied customers. Angie’s List has provided a comprehensive list of tips for hiring a home improvement contractor. Here is the list, but please click the link to read in depth the description of each point:

Connect with your contractor: They should be easy to relate to and strong at communicating with you throughout the bidding and renovation process.

Understand that price reflects quality: Contractors who rush cut corners and use sub-par materials. Also, putting the time into a cohesive estimate can help eliminate extras in the long run.

Know your contractor’s credentials: Are they licensed and insured? Will they pull permits?

Get it in writing: Get a detailed estimate in writing that shows the work to be completed along with specific materials.

Be upfront about your budget: It helps the contractor appropriately price your renovation. It helps us determine how elaborate a renovation can be and allows us to guide the customer in a direction that enables them to remodel within that budget.

Educate yourself: Ask questions about the process and make sure you are on the same page with your contractor.

Be prepared: Have your material selections made prior to the beginning of the project. In fact, have them made so that the materials can be factored into your quote. By waiting to select materials, it will delay the renovation process.

Wait to demolish: Wait for the contractor to begin the project. Construction delays happen and the last thing you want to do is smash all of your cabinetry and then find out the contractor had to delay your project start by two weeks!

Be courteous of your neighbors: This goes for your contractor as well. Make sure that your contractor is not making a huge mess of your property and letting their materials or debris get onto your neighbor’s property. Also, make sure that reasonable work hours are being followed.

Keep your eye on the prize: Renovations can be disruptive, but are worth it in the long run!

Ensure that the project is complete before signing off and paying the final payment: Make sure that the work is completed to your satisfaction and that every aspect of the contract has been fulfilled.

http://www.angieslist.com/articles/11-tips-hiring-home-improvement-contractor.htm

Here is another link that can help you find the right contractor for your job: 

http://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0242-hiring-contractor

It is also important to hire a company that has the capability of taking the project from start to finish. Let’s be honest, we all have too much going on in our lives. We work, raise families, have multiple obligations, and barely have time to decompress at the end of the day. Why as a homeowner, would you want to manage an entire group of people that you hire to work on your home? What is unique about us is that we are sort of a hybrid company. We are contractors yes, but we are also a General Contractor. We do the majority of the work on our remodels by ourselves, but we have aligned our company with a group of tradesmen that can efficiently handle certain tasks on our projects with a high level of quality. We have one plumber, one electrician, and one sheetrock company that we integrate into our projects. Unlike many General Contractors, we don’t look for the cheapest price when it comes to having subcontracted trades get involved on our projects. We would rather pay for peace of mind that the electrical or the plumbing is going to be done the right way, with permits, and be done cleanly. The relationships we have developed have given us an advantage in that we are able to schedule these people to come into a project when we need them. If we come across and “unforeseen,” our guys will do whatever they can to help us resolve the issue as quickly as possible. It helps us keep the project moving forward and shows our clients that we truly are invested in our projects. We often hear stories where homeowners are tasked with hiring outside contractors for each individual trade. That creates stress on the homeowner and often contributes to longer duration projects.

You should never feel pressured by a contractor. Take your remodel or project at your own pace. Look for a contractor who is willing to work with you throughout the process and offer suggestions relative to your project. It is highly important that you feel 100% comfortable with the contractor you choose because you need to be able to trust in your contractor and rely on them to do the best work possible. The relationship between contractor and homeowner is incredibly important not only through the planning and bidding phase, but also throughout the project. If a strained relationship is developed, the project may be filled with tension and you may find that the level of care and attention being put into your project isn’t what it should be. A good contractor wants repeat business and a contractor who values that is not going to rush you or cut corners.

Choosing The Right Contractor

One of the major issues we deal with in the realm of home improvement contracting is the reliability, workability, and durability of wood today. As one of the leading building materials, Pine has made it’s way into many aspects of both commercial and residential remodeling. Chances are, if you look around your house, you will be able to see several places where Pine or a variation, Douglas Fir have been used. 

Most of our homes are constructed with what we call “two by” material. A combination of 2x4’s, 2x6’s, 2x8’s, 2x10’s, and 2x12’s all make up the “bones” of our homes. Typically, Doug Fir kiln dried wood is used for framing members and continues to be the main material selected to frame although metal is starting to make a surge in the building industry. Being that we are based in Wethersfield, CT, the oldest town in Connecticut, we often deal with antique properties that have their own charm when it comes to building materials. It wasn’t uncommon for landowners to harvest material directly from their own land to aid in the construction of their homestead. Everything from Pine, Oak, and Maple right down to the brownstone and fieldstones that were found on the land were often used in the construction of foundations, houses, barns, and privies. Back after it was settled, Wethersfield became a bustling hub of trading and shipping due to it’s prime location on the Connecticut River. Due to a shallower river, Wethersfield was the farthest trading port into the interior of Connecticut. Many ship captains settled in Wethersfield and subsequently, their ships were disassembled and used to build houses. When we remove parts of the exterior of the homes around town, we still find a wide variety of building materials that were repurposed. We have seen old ship boards, barn doors, and we even discovered that a small bungalow built at the end of the 19th century was once a barn for one of the neighboring homes. A walk through Old Wethersfield will show you many different examples of ship captains and landowners using the resources of the land to their advantage.

With the housing boom in the 1980’s, things seemed to change. We can often tell just by looking at the pine trim in a home when the home was built. Wood was being harvested so frequently for building that the resources needed to be renewed, so additional trees were planted. The new wood was grown so fast and harvested so quickly that old growth wood quickly gave way to the harvesting of new growth wood. This has caused some issues in today’s building climate. With old growth wood, the grain structure of the pine material was very tight and close together. If you take a look at old pine floors or even stained pine trim that you might have in your house, you will see that the grains are spaced more closely together. This is an indicator that the wood had many years to grow and develop before it was harvested. With a tighter grain structure, the wood has a different density as well. Older pine tends to be harder than newer pine because the grains are so close together. The density of the wood directly correlates to the weatherability of the wood as well. Tighter grain structure helps wood to shed water as opposed to absorbing it. With a newer growth piece of pine, the grain structure is much more spread out which makes the wood much more susceptible to rot. If you look at many of the older homes around Wethersfield, homes that were build in the 1700s and 1800s, you will see many situations where original material is still on the house. While it may show signs of age and wear, you can still see in many cases that the wood is still solid and holding paint well. This is largely attributed to the grain structure of the material.

One example of where we see the drastic difference in the durability of material is on the old porch floors, especially those built in the early 1900’s. Around town here in Wethersfield, we have many colonial style homes with beautiful covered front or rear porches. The porches were typically built on thin metal posts and framed out of regular Fir framing members. They were surfaced with 3 1/8 Doug Fir floor boards. Doug Fir was commonly used as a floor covering in both the interior and on the exterior of homes. After about 100-120 years of wear from being exposed to the elements, many of these floors are either in need of repair or replacement. When we go to repair or replace these floors, we are always amazed as to how well they stood up and lasted over time. Back when they were installed, they were laid down and nailed and then painted. Now, when we go to do the repairs, you can clearly see the difference in the graining of the wood. The new material is definitely not as dense and hard as the old material and this requires us to take extra precautions with the wood to make sure it lasts. We bottom prime each board before installation in addition to side priming the tongue and groove edges. Then, as we install each one, we seal the stainless-steel staple holes with siliconized caulk and prime the cut edges. Even with taking these precautions, we have seen a faster deterioration in the new material. This new material, even with the extra steps we put in to making sure it lasts, has a much faster fail rate than the old material. So much so that we have had to do repairs on some of the wood that we installed 10 years ago.

Another example of where we see the difference between new wood and old wood is when we go to stain clear pin interior trim. We had a job recently where we color matched a stained window by sanding it down, applying test stains, and then applying polyurethane over the top. We were able to find a perfect match by using the original window. However, when we went to stain the new pine wood and trim, we found that the “perfect match” stain was very far off in color. How could this be? Well, wood grain takes stain in different ways. In this case, the new wood’s grain structure was much more spread apart which caused the stain to have a much browner tone to it. Needless to say, we had to sand all of the stain off and go back to the drawing board and find a stain that was better suited for the new wood.

The use of finger jointed material is also an area that has changed due to the building boom of the 70’s and 80’s. Finger jointing is when the end of a piece of wood is cut out to mimic fingers. This cut out is then joined with glue and pressure with another piece of wood that has the same type of cutouts. We are finding more and more that finger jointed material is made up of smaller and smaller pieces of wood glued together to create larger pieces. This is the case in flat stock material (1 by material) and trim pieces as well. Unfortunately, with primed trim, we are seeing that more and more contractors are using primed, finger jointed trim on the exterior of homes. The issue with this is that the finger joints fail incredibly quickly due to the many possible areas of failure which would be the finger joints themselves. Once water gets into the most minute crack in a finger joint, the water keeps seeping in, expands the material, cracks it, and lets more water in causing extensive rot. Companies like Lifespan however, have developed a way to naturally pressure treat pine material and apply a very good primer to it. Lifespan used to come with finger joints, but now they offer a solid select board which is a complete solid piece of wood, 16’ in length. It is rated for exterior use and will outlast anything else on the market with the exception of PVC material. In addition, the primer they use is an alkyd primer which is durable and safe for the environment. In exterior trim applications, this is the only material we use. People often are surprised by how much our materials cost, but when we explain to them that with the Lifespan, they are getting a superior product, but it does have a cost associated with it. A 1x8x16 usually costs about $60-$70. However, in situations where we are dealing with wood trim and clapboards (Lifespan makes a clapboard as well), it is important to keep the material consistent around the entire house. Lifespan makes this possible to do while providing peace of mind that the material is going to last.

Next time you are having work priced out on your house, make sure you understand what you are getting in terms of material. It’s important to remember that the wood of today is going to be different than what you are used to. It’s softer, less dense, accepts paint and stain differently, and will wear in a shorter period of time than older, slower grown, wood. While it may look good at first, it will deteriorate much quicker than newer, modified materials. The introduction of composite and PVC materials is alleviating some of these headaches for homeowners, but those alternatives can be costly as well. When we quote projects, we want to make sure that our potential clients know exactly what they are getting for the price. This is especially true when it comes to material since there can be such a drastic difference in material cost. A finger jointed piece of pine trim at a big box store can cost $6 for an 8-foot board whereas a piece of Lifespan solid primed and treated board goes for about $60-70 for a 16-foot length. The big difference is that one should be used outside and the other should not. If you have any questions regarding various wood materials and the difference between them, feel free to give us a call. We are always here to help!

Wood today: Why is it so different?

In bathroom and kitchen remodeling, flooring options can often seem overwhelming. Hardwood, laminate, vinyl, and tile make up the majority of what we see as the homeowner’s preference for flooring material. Tile is the most preferred for bathrooms, while hardwoods are most popular in kitchens. 

Most of the time when we get a call for a remodel, the homeowner usually has a good idea of which direction they would like to proceed in when it comes to flooring, but when it comes to tile, we have been asked the same question many times. “What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain tile, and which is better?” It’s a good question and we think you will be surprised by the answer.

The term “ceramic tile” is commonly used to cover both ceramic and porcelain materials, but in reality, true ceramic is quite different than porcelain material. Clay is blended with minerals and water under extreme heat to solidify the material to make ceramic tile. This process does not create a material that is impervious to water penetration. Therefore, a glaze is added to the material to create a nonporous layer which is called a “design layer.” When ceramic is glazed with a grade III or higher glaze, it becomes highly resistant to scratching or moisture. In general, any glazed ceramic tile will be incredibly durable and will last for a long time if installed and cared for properly.

The creation and composition of porcelain tile is quite different from that of ceramic tile. Porcelain is made up of finely ground sand that is pressed together under extreme pressure and heat. The end result is an almost glass-like substance that has a water penetration rate of less than 0.5%. Due to this composition of natural materials, porcelain takes on the same great characteristics of ceramic tile in that it won’t absorb odors or support bacteria or allergens.

I was recently on an estimate in which the homeowner asked me if it was true that porcelain was a better material because it has a uniformity of color throughout. This question has been asked several times before and we can only assume that the popularity of porcelain tile has surged because of this assumption. In reality, if you chip or break a porcelain tile, the color that you see on the face of the tile does not travel through the tile uniformly. The main reason for this is that porcelain is also treated with the same “design layer” process as ceramic tile. Years ago you may have been able to find porcelain tile composed of the same finish throughout, but in an effort to broaden selection at a lower price point, “design layers” were added which ultimately eliminated one of the main differences between the two materials.

So, when you are at the tile store trying to make your decision among the thousands of tile choices, just know that both ceramic and porcelain have their own qualities. Porcelain is more durable, while ceramic is easier to cut and install. They are both high quality, durable materials and you will be able to find a wide variety of choices with low and high price points in each. No matter what the tile material, the biggest factor to consider is what color and size you want!

If you have any questions regarding tiling or remodeling, please feel free to contact us at contact@goverestoration.com